Safety related Mult-Pitch Following Skills
Below are my favorite free online learning videos (with a bit of commentary) covering some of the basic skills for following a multi-pitch trad climb. For more learning resources on other topics check out the free learning resources page. The below information is organized in what I believe to be the order of importance.
Lead Belaying (there is way more to belaying than most people appreciate) Almost all climbers think of themselves a safe belayers. Yet, far too many season ending injuries could be avoided with better belays. This video does a great job walking though what it means to provide a good belay in a variety of contexts. It’s not the whole story, but its most of it.
Multi-Pitch Communication
Avoid miscommunications/ confusion by limiting verbal communication to specific pre-agreed upon “commands” (i.e., requests for action). Commonly used multi-pitch climbing commands are the ones below. I haven’t found a good video about this yet.
- Belay On-This means you put me on belay, verified that it is correct, you have control of the brake strand (or tied it off), and I can climb when ready.
- Climbing-I’m starting to climb and want you to start actively belaying me.
- Off Belay Your Name-I no longer need a belay, (i.e., I’m “safe”, maybe I’m clipped into a bolt “direct,” maybe I’m standing on a big ledge, maybe I’m clove hitched into an trad anchor, etc.), regarless want you to take me off belay. If you are not sure you heard me say “Off Belay,” keep me on belay until the rope comes tight on you.
- Belay Off Joe-You have taken me off belay, the rope(s) is now free for me to pull up all the slack.
- That’s me-The resistance I feel is the rope pulling up on the anchor, I will stop pulling and shortly out the rope(s) on belay.
- Your Name On Belay-I have you on belay, you can break down the anchor and climb when you are ready.
- Climbing-You are starting to climb, and want me to start actively belaying you.
- Up rope–There is more slack in the rope than you would like and you want me to pull some rope up.
- Take–You are about to weight the rope (fall/ rest) and would like me to pull it tight so you don’t loose upward progress.
- Slack-You need more slack in the rope, probably to make it easier to clean gear or your are about to make a delicate traversing move.
Cleaning Gear when Following a Pitch
When cleaning a pitch it’s nice to manage the gear such that it does not interfere with your climbing. Slings and cords dangling can interfere with your legs / feet and make the climbing experience less enjoyable. Below are videos of a few ways to keep things organized and out of your way while climbing as well as tips to avoid dropping gear. It also demonstrates what it looks like to follow a trad pitch.
Following a trad pitch (cleaning gear / communications)
French Freeing with cams and slings
Knowing how to use trad gear and slings to move efficiently up though difficult terrain is a very useful skill. Oftentimes it’s easier / safer to retreat by going up than going down. When the follower can aid, it’s much more efficient than hauling from above and it also opens up possibilities to try pitches that are at one’s free climbing limit.
Haven’t found a video on this yet. Let me know if you have one.
Efficiency Related Multi-Pitch Skills (below)
One way to rack Alpine Draws
One way to rack cordellette and quad slings
One way to rack slings
Cleaning Cams
I haven’t seen a good video on this yet. But, it is the reverse of placing cams, which there are a lot of videos on. To avoid getting gear stuck, before touching the cam look at how its placed and decide on the best path to remove it.
Rope System When Climbing in a Group of Three
If managed well, climbing in a group of three can be efficient and fun.
Parallel rope system
-haven’t found a good video of this yet (it should demonstrate dealing with twist in the rope). Both climbers are on their own strand of rope and they climb at the same time at there own pace. One climber can be hanging on the rope while the other continues to climb.
End roping
-haven’t found a good video of this yet. Both climbers are tied into the same rope. One is tied to the end and the other near the end. The climbers move together at the same pace. Good for easy terrain where neither are likely to fall and they are likely both going to move fast.
Coiling and Stacking Rope
-Oddly, I haven’t found a good video on this yet either. Good rope managment saves a lot of time and energy. When the leader is dealing with gear, its efficient if the follower to help deals with the rope.