Castleton Tower–Self-Rescue/ Rescue

Hazards:

Stuck rope on rappel (stranded)

Off route on rappel (stranded)

Lead fall (injured)

SAR Response:

-If the visibility is sufficient and the winds are not too high, helicopters can be used to access / transport from the summit or the saddle (base). Note that access could still take a number of hours depending on helicopter availability (helicopters can be unavailable for reason other than weather).

-If helicopters are unavailable or can not fly due to weather, the SAR response will depend, in part, on who is available to respond and whether the team is able to rescue from the ground in the given conditions.

Joe’s Recommendations**:

-Practice ascending with the ascending gear that you plan to climb with (being able to ascend a rope proficiently is an essential multi-pitch climbing skill).

-Self-rescue to the base of the climb (saddle). If you’re not likely going to be able to self-rescue to your car consider not starting down the trail, it’s typically easier to rescue from the saddle with a helicopter than from somewhere along the steep narrow rugged trail. Call 911 to see what your options are.

-Climb with enough layers to survive the night.

-Check the point forecast for the overnight temps and wind. The conditions in Moab are not the same as on the Tower https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Castleton-Tower/forecasts/2029

-Consider using a properly dressed flat overhand (EDK) to join ropes for the rappels (some knots get stuck easier than others).

-Climb with enough water for 24 hours (very temperature dependent)

-Separate the ropes when getting off rappel to prevent twists. Twisted ropes are often the cause of stuck ropes.

-Secure the ropes at all times so you don’t lose them in the wind.

-If windy, don’t throw ropes, saddlebag.

-If windy, consider packing one rope away and rappel with one rope (70M) or rappel Kors-Ingalls.

-Protect before the cruxes (french free if the alternative is a big fall).

-Consider using a direct anchor belay for the potential factor 2 lead fall at the start of P2 of the North Chimney. The bolt in the off-width is weak and should not be trusted. A #5 cam paired some off-width skills are key at the start of P2.

-Consider using a locker draw on the bolt below at the crux of Kor-Ingalls. Also, a few #4 cams are useful on Kor-Ingalls.

-Be aware of loose rocks especially up higher and during and early season.

** As is the case everywhere on this website, these are my (Satori Explore LLC) opinions only. I’m not speaking on behalf of any companies that I guide for or search and rescue organizations that I’m a part of. Climbing is dangerous, especially big sand stone towers. There is a lot more to know than what is included above. Use your own best judgement and be conservative. Hiring a trained / experienced guide can mitigate the risks.