Ancient Art–Self-Rescue / Rescue

Hazards

-The rock is very soft and friable.

-The route traverses so lowering back to the belay is often not an option.

-The route does not protect well (it is run out and, as discussed above, the rock is soft).

-The follower can sometimes be exposed to large pendulum falls.

SAR Response

-There is no place to “land” a helicopter on top. Short hauling may be needed, which would require a non-local helicopter if one is available and the weather permits.

-The SAR response (without a short haul capable helicopter) would depend, in part, on who is available to respond and whether the team is able to rescue from the ground in the given conditions.

Joe’s Recommendations**

-Solid climbing movement is your primary safety (do not fall on lead!).

-Consider using direct anchor belays to protect the belayer.

-Be comfortable down climbing the terrain / do not push your lead grade.

-Do not trust small cams to arrest a big lead fall (.4 or larger on this climb)

-Climb with “3 points on” and push rather than pull.

-Consider adding a back belay along the “sidewalk” for the follower.

-Do not stand on top unless you understand the risk and accept it.

-Know how to escape the belay, lower out, rappel a tensioned line, ascend, and haul an injured climber.

-Self-rescue to the ground if possible.

-Know how to stop major bleeds and have the necessary kit with you.

-Consider lowering an injured climber all the way down to the main trail (tie 2 70M together and pass a knot).

-Cell coverage is available up high, but likely not at the base.

** These are my (Satori Explore LLC’s) opinions only. I’m not speaking on behalf of any companies that I guide for or search and rescue organizations that I’m a part of. Climbing is dangerous, especially big sand stone towers. There is a lot more to know that what is included above. Use your own best judgement and be conservative. Hiring a trained / experienced guide can mitigate the risks.